As much as I enjoy Mexico, the thought of visiting Mexico City still sends a 
tremor of fear down my spine. This is especially vexing because the city has become increasingly intriguing to me over the past year or so.
But regardless of whether my feelings are rational are not, I’m in pretty good company when it comes to fearing the Distrito Federal.
Even David Lida, a former New Yorker who wrote a critically acclaimed book about Mexico City, admits that it took him about four years to work up the courage to go there.
Foreboding. The constant undercurrent of foreboding that Mexico City evokes, reminds me of the New York City of my youth in the 1970s and 80s.
As a kid from the suburbs, riding NYC’s graffiti covered subways put me in a state of hyperalertness. Besides all the bad news, movies such as The Warriors (gangs fighting in subways) and Fort Apache the Bronx depicted the city as a war zone.
Braving the Fear. But enjoying the Big Apple’s spectacles was well worth it–even if I did so with one hand on my wallet and an eye toward the nearest exit.
The same can be said for Mexico City today.
In his final post for the blog Uncovering Mexico, Austin-American Statesman reporter Jeremy Schwartz said one of the biggest challenges to living in Mexico City is fighting off paranoia. He explains:
You see friends robbed and assaulted. You hear of far worse in the local papers. You lay in bed at night and plot escape routes. You keep a wooden stick studded with sharp nails in your bathroom.
But he says that you can’t give into the fear.
To do so is to miss out on the carnival of experience available in this unique city. Here you can catch a Klezmer band playing in a 17th Century building at 2 a.m.; find exquisite street tacos and gourmet fusion cuisine on the same block; wander through labyrinthine markets
Hopefully, I’ll overcome my fear and visit Mexico City soon. Like the New York City of my youth, there are just too many reasons to go there–even in a slightly paranoid state.
Where are you working up the courage to visit?
Photo by joseloya (Via Creative Commons)
on Jun 25th, 2009 at 7:53 pm
I love Mexico City. I guess it is like loving New York City. I’ve visited half a dozen times in the last few years and each time has been a treat. I love the people, the museums, the art, the parks, the people, the food, the history, the music, and of course the people.
On one hand, I try to be careful. I don’t wear jewelry, no fancy clothes and I try to blend in with everyone else. On the other hand, I go everywhere, I ride the subway and I’m out at night.
There is so much to do and see. I miss it. I better start planning another trip soon.
on Jun 25th, 2009 at 7:59 pm
Thanks Gary. The more I hear people recommend it, the more intrigued I am about going there.
on Jun 26th, 2009 at 9:36 am
I am from NJ, lived in NYC and SF and when I visited mexico city, like david lida – I decided to move here.
Certainly, it is a good idea to be up on your research but really, in the short 3 years I have been here, there have been many changes. In fact, I went away to the US for a couple of weeks and returned to see that all the taxi cabs were now a uniform color and the system had significantly formalized. I thought mexico would be like NY but in Spanish but boy was I wrong – the culture makes walking on the streets more like going to a live museum – everything is so vibrant, complex, new, and thought provoking. But that is more about living here, being here long term. Visitors are perfectly able to enjoy the many museums, live music, excellent restaurants and famous hospitality and may make the conscious choice of being in or out of a “tourist” bubble. And you are lucky – when you come visit you will have friends like me to help you if you get stuck! (-:
Best,
Dyana
on Jun 26th, 2009 at 9:52 am
Gary – I just read your post. Great points! No jewelry, no flagging taxis on the street, no drinking the water from the tap – and overall, if you manage your risk in advance, you will have no problem at all.
The taxi situation can be complicated here but I rely on radio taxis rather than “sitios” although they start the meter at twenty pesos ($1.50) vs 7 pesos (.50). For me, it is easier. Tourist taxis from hotels can be much more expensive but you may order radio taxis to your hotel. Below are a couple of radio taxi websites I use – for both, you may reserve online if you are uncomfortable with spanish:
TaxiMex
http://www.taximex.com.mx/
Servitaxi – also in english
http://www.servitaxis.com.mx/
At the airport, there are several official looking stands that all have about the same prices and all with stands are legitimate. You buy your ticket at the stand and then are ushered over to a corner outside to wait for your taxi.
Also – Tipping is not customary in Mexico City taxis but a few pesos are always appreciated.
Mexico City is BIG and not all drivers know where they are going at all times. They often will pull out a map or ask directions – my advice is to be patient as the taxi costs clicks up very slowly and your cost is usually quite low anyway. I used to get very upset and think I was getting taken advantage of….
on Jun 26th, 2009 at 12:06 pm
I was going to scoff a little, but then I remembered my first trip to Mexico City back in 2003. I landed, but before I left Benito Juarez airport I had already bought a ticket out for 3 days later, onto Merida.
Those three days were fabulous though, and I regretted not staying longer. I had to come back to DF later in my backpacking tour and that time spent a lot longer here.
And now of course I live here….it’s just not that bad! Sure I got robbed at gun point once, but I was wandering in the worng place at a silly time! And I have got a good story to take home with me.
on Jun 27th, 2009 at 9:55 am
My son and his family live in Mexico City, and we love to visit. Of course they know their way around so it is less intimidating, but to me it seems like a city of neighborhoods. YOu couldn’t possibly get to know the whole city, just pick two or three colonias to explore, add in Centro, and before you know it you have a grip on a piece of it. Next time, explore more new places.