What Candy Tells Us About U.S.-Mexico Relations

One of the things that’s so intriguing about Mexico is how foreign it seems, despite sharing a common border with the U.S. While subtle cultural differences exist between the U.S. and Canada, “Mexico often seems as different to us as Ecuador or China,” the People’s Guide to Mexico notes.

At first blush, Mexican candy seems strange to the average U.S. consumer.

But as the number of Hispanics in the U.S. continues to grow (47 million–65 percent of which are of Mexican ancestry), it’s only a matter of time before Mexico and U.S. will begin to share more things in common.

In fact, those who look at Mexico-U.S. relations through the prism of candy will tell you that this is already happening.

At first blush, much of the Mexican candy sold at the open-air markets seems as strange to the average U.S. consumer as the menudo (spicy soup made from cow stomach) that is most likely being served just a few stands over.

Spicy Candy. But Mexico’s confections occupy a special place in the hearts of those who have acquired a taste for them. In a post last week, Andy at LatinArtE shared detailed descriptions and vivid photos of some of his favorite treats. While Andy seems to prefer mild candy, there are also several spicy flavors that regularly appear in Mexico’s sweets. CancunCanuck recently described how she’s developed warm feelings toward hot candy.

Some Mexican candies that seem like they might be popular in the U.S. have names that are unlikely to resonate in Americans’ ears. Back in January, author/blogger and Mexico City resident David Lida recounted his discovery of Bubu Lubu (accent on the third “u”)– chocolate covered marshmellows with jelly.

Even if U.S.-Mexico tastes in candy have not entirely merged, the candy industry is headed in that direction. U.S.-based candy maker Hershey recently moved many of its operations to Mexico, following a trend in which other confectioneers such as Brachs have been lured by Mexico’s cheaper labor and sugar. Mexico’s candy exports to the United States have more than doubled since 2002, USA Today reported in February.

But cheap labor and inexpensive ingredients were not the only draw for Hershey.

Appealing to the Hispanic Palate. Besides expanding its operations south of the border, the company also purchased one of Mexico’s leading spicy candy makers, Pelon Pelo Rico. An executive at Hershey’s explained to Candy Industry magazine why he thinks Hershey’s decision to cater to Mexican tastes will also likely pay dividends in the U.S.:

Currently, Hispanics comprise 14% of the U.S population,” he says. “And they are continuing to grow. By 2020, they will make up 20% of the population. That constitutes one trillion dollars in purchasing power that is growing at a 7% annual rate, which is three times that of the general market. Considering the role that Hispanic culture, music and fashion plays in the United States, Hershey needs to be competitive and a leader in this sector.”

As the leading spicy candy brand in Mexico, Pelon Pelo Rico provides Hershey with an instant “power brand” within the Mexican community.

Hershey is also creating products and flavors specifically targeted to the U.S. Latino community, Candy Industry reported.

Last fall, the company launched its Dulceria Thalia line as part of a multiyear partnership with Mexican singer and actress Thalia Sodi.

The Latina “superstar’s line currently consists of Dulce de Leche Kisses, Hershey’s Miniatures, Jolly Rancher lollipops in both tropical fruit and hot and spicy flavors, and Cajeta Elegancita, a chocolate-covered bar of crispy wafer sticks layered with cajeta flavoring (Cajeta is the Mexican caramel flavor that’s called dulce de leche in most Latin countries.),” the article said.

For the story-behind-the-story of Mexico’s juice-drink Boing, check out my friend Sarah’s post at Huevos a la Mexicana. After spending the last few months in Japan, she’s back in Oaxaca. Hopefully, she’ll resume blogging soon.

Photo by Esparta (Via Creative Commons)