Discovering Urban Latin American Cuisine

Manuel Iguina is one of the most successful restaurateurs in Washington, D.C. Originally from Puerto Rico, Iguina has helped open Oyamel (high-end Mexican), and Cafe Atlantico (Nuevo Latino Cuisine). His latest venture is Mio, which focuses on Urban Latin American Cuisine.

I ate at Mio recently and discovered a delightful new twist to Latin American food.

Iguina’s basic approach is what he refers to as Urban Latin American Cuisine, which generally involves gourmet interpretations of typical Latin American dishes.

In this interview, Iguina tells us where he believes Urban Latin American Cuisine fits in the U.S. and why its largely missed by the mainstream.

How would you describe urban Latin American cuisine?

In essence, anytime you or your readers travel to any of the large metropolises in Latin America you may be overwhelmed by the fury of regional and traditional flavors that are often missed or unavailable in the U.S. The elusive flavors you can only get from a street  taco stand in Ciudad de México or a ceviche restaurant in Lima, Perú is our regional heritage and we are proud of it.

But the other side of that experience is also the assertive re-interpretation these traditional flavors undergo by world class chefs in these very same cities. One such example, as point in case, is Aguila y Sol in Ciudad de México, where the traditional collides with the creative presenting some eye opening new propositions.

Like Ciudad de México, many other Latin American urban cities have been busy supporting their own urban culinary movements such as San Juan and Lima. Now, we are not talking “fusion”, “molecular gastronomy” or “deconstructive” techniques. Accessibility,  honesty, freedom and a respect for the traditional are all layered within this notion. We strongly feel that mastering the traditional is the most sensible way to understand how to reinterpret with our urban accent.

In general terms, we feel what has been known as “Latin Fusion” or “Nuevo Latino” largely responds to the interpretation given to Latin ingredients in the U.S. by different pockets of immigrant communities and later elevated by  talented U.S. chefs.

What are some examples of Urban Latin American Cuisine dishes?

Crab Cake, Corn-Sweet Plantain

Crab is a protein used ubiquitously through the Latin American Caribbean basin, especially in sweet-piquant salads and Creole stews. We nodded to the strong affection by the D.C.-area community for this shellfish, especially the varieties harvested in the Maryland area. Our treatment of the all-important “crab cake” seeks to blend the urban Latin American preference for well seasoned crab and sweet starch elements with the  local taste for a crab cake composition. Our offering is bound with a naturally sweetened “Amarillo” [a green plantain allowed to ripen to a yellow and dark spotted stage] and topped with seasoned young corn kernels to enhance the natural sweetness of the dish. In fact, some
communities throughout Latin America harvest crab by feeding them sweet corn as a way to further enhance their natural flavors.

Bacalaito Coated Shrimp, Avocado-Tomato Salad

“Bacalaito” is a hugely popular fritter in Puerto Rico. In essence, it is a slightly more dense tempura mix that is deep fried as a thin and crispy wafer, with chunks of Bacalao and enjoyed best by the beach with a cold beer. However, this fritter unto itself can be a bit overwhelming [though no less scrumptious]. We reinterpreted the batter to lessen its density and, in fact, turning it into a Japanese-style tempura. We then lightly coat Gulf shrimps with the “Bacalaito” batter and quickly fry them to give the coating a golden hue and the shrimp a “snappy” texture. To counterbalance the shrimp, we present it on a bed of finely diced fresh avocado, cucumber and tomatoes, slightly seasoned for balance.

How did you learn to prepare Urban Latin American cuisine? What are some of your main influences?

Our memo to New York and the rest of the country is that there is a very vibrant restaurant scene in Washington, D.C. that does not look north in search of inspiration. Just look at the embassies in the city and the fact that their employees are nationals seeking a taste from home away from home. Washington, D.C., by its political nature, must be culturally in tune with the rest of the world so we may offer a hospitable environment to our guests. Embassies have their own chefs and often their own stores, so there is a significant spillover of these tastes and demand for uncompromised ingredients.

When we hold our “Chefs for a Day” events our guests chefs bring this angle. Recently we had Peruvian political personalities display a breathtaking interpretation of their favorite dishes and ingredients. The same goes for our guests from the Dominican Republic or Puerto Rico, for that matter. They know the traditional recipes, have been enjoying them all their lives and love them, but they have also adapted them throughout their careers and world travels with urban tastes. For instance, do you know that Salvadoran cuisine uses a flower that is strikingly similar to a white truffle in flavor?  The label “Urban Latin American Cuisine” is simply a “banner” in an attempt to tell the market “we get you, and here we are”.

When most people in the U.S. hear the name “Mio” they think it’s going to be an Italian restaurant. But everyone seems very satisfied with the food you serve. What are some of the challenges you face in marketing urban Latin American cuisine in the U.S.?

It has not been a challenge. Since we steered decisively towards our Urban Latin American Cuisine focus, it was the market that told us “What took you so long!?”.

Would you say that U.S. tastes have evolved in the time you’ve been in the U.S.?

Travel food TV has changed it. Specifically Anthony Bourdain’s  “Cook’s Tour” /“No Reservations” and recently Andrew Zimmern “Bizzare Foods/World”, as two examples, have brought the anthropological/cultural/political heritage of our culinary traditions to the living rooms of mainstream America and said: “We dare you”.

The funny part is, the only “daring” they did was to taste really amazing food, show respect and objectivity to things that are different and, along the way, expand the culinary horizons of Americans. We also had a breathtaking boom of travel by Americans of many different ages to all parts of the world in the 90s and 2000s. Once you sit at a tapas bar in Madrid or Barcelona, or enjoy a “parrillada Argentina”, it is hard to come back and pretend “value meals” is as good as it gets.

What are some of your favorite restaurants or chefs in Latin America?

Chefs, Augusto Schreiner,Puerto Rico… Gaston Acurio, Peru.. Afredo Ayala, Puerto Rico..Patricia Quintana, Mexico.. Enrique Olvera, Mexico…Roberto Treviño, Puerto Rico..Sumito Estevez, Venezuela…Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, Peru..Alex Atala, Brazil… and many more