Ringing in the New Decade in Antigua, Guatemala

To continue the series about her trip to Guatemala, guest poster Nora Walsh tells us what it was like to greet 2010 in Antigua, Guatemala. The end of 2009 was punctuated by music, alcohol, and fireworks amidst Antigua’s picturesque city center.

By Nora Walsh

For New Years Eve we headed two-and-a-half hours back to Antigua to ring in 2010. We checked into the brand new hostel Dionisio, and headed for dinner at Kafka, where I savored the most delicious macaroni and cheese I have ever eaten. Then we joined the festivities taking place in the streets. Families, tourists, and Guatemaltecos from bordering cities descended upon Antigua to enjoy the picturesque colonial city and its agreeable weather. Bands were playing at every corner, flame throwers and circus parades gallivanted through the city entertaining the masses. Small kioskos sold beer and alcohol well into the morning, and everyone celebrated on the cobblestone pathways of the city center to call in the New Year.

As the year came to a close, the old buildings shook from the harmonized countdown, and when the clock hit 12:00am, a master display of fireworks unleashed, music blared, champagne sprayed and everyone rose in a chanting chorus of “Gaute, Gaute, Gaute!” It was invigorating and uplifting, instilling hope for a better year to come than the one just completed, marked by crisis and hardship on so many levels.

Normally the bars close at 1:00am in Antigua, but New Year’s Eve is the one night of the year they stay open until at least 4:00am. Many bars and clubs require a pricey reservation to spend the night in one location, but we preferred to enjoy the debauchery in the streets and wander in and out of bars with no cover. We stumbled upon an amazing live band at Sala, and an open air bar and music venue called El Chaman, set amidst a church ruin.

The following morning we had brunch in a 16^th century Spanish mansion courtyard called Café Condesa. After we pushed through our hangovers, we strolled the city fully appreciating its colonial architecture and its Scandinavian influence, with power lines running underground and impeccably clean streets. That evening we dined at the Mexican restaurant Frida’s, which reminds to mention that Guatemala has the BEST guacamole I have tasted abroad, and is consistent among cities. It is one of their main crops and they season it to perfection, free of any chili peppers or red onions, just mouthwatering guacamole, salt and lemon: riquisimo!

Other dining recommendations include brunch at La Terraza or Santo Domingo, sunset drinks at Café Sky, dinner at La Esquina, hookah at Gaia, and drinks at Café No Se, Café 2000, La Casbah, Reilly’s and Estudio 35.

We also did some shopping at Antigua’s main market.  For a reasonable deal here, you really need to low ball and stick to your lowest price, you will eventually get what you ask for (or maybe spend 5Q more) by making sure you have small bills, take them out and say this the amount you will pay for it. Let them haggle with you for a bit, restate your asking price, and if they don’t meet it be completely committed to walking away.

Usually when you put your money away, or when you start to walk, they will give it to you for the price you asked.  Which, by the way, usually is a more than fair price we learned at the airport where we found embroidered handicrafts that were just as nice, if not nicer, for only a few dollars more than the market. We purchased brightly embroidered pillowcases and oven mitts. Great momentos, as it turns out, because we use them everyday.