Travelojos

I’ve just discovered NPR’s Podcast Alt.Latino, which is devoted to alternative Latin music. With the growing market for Latin Alternativa music in the U.S., not to mention the burgeoning Latino population, it’s high time NPR started a program like this.

The Podcast was launched in June, but I only found out about it this week.

Unfortunately, listening to it the first time was sort of like going on a bad blind date. It seemed to have so much going for it, but it just didn’t live up to the hype. In fact it was kind of annoying and talked too much.

There was too much chit chat both at the show’s beginning and in between songs. (Skip it by listening to the songs on Alt.Latino’s website). The talk before the songs start is mostly about mundane stuff that has nothing to do with music or Latin America.

Chatting are hosts Jasmine Garsd and Felix Contreras.

They seem to know about Latin music, but their main qualifications appear to be that they are originally from Latin America and enjoy bands from there.

Part of the problem is that each weekly episode is based on a theme, which most of the time seems arbitrary. In August, the shows centered around “love,” “old school/new school,” and “fitness.”  Jasmine and Felix go a bit overboard in explaining how each song fits within the theme.

For the Labor Day episode, hosts Jasmine and Felix play songs about work.

But most of the song samples are so short, it’s hard to to get a feel for whether you like the songs or not. Fortunately, many of the songs are posted on Alt.Latino’s website. One song worth a listen from the Labor Day is:

• Trabalhador by Seu Jorge. “Brazilian worker, you work all day like a donkey and make no money,” he sings in Portuguese.

It’s hard to see why two hosts are needed for a show that runs only about 15 minutes. Why not have one host with a guest musician or music critic on each show?

One thing I like about the show is that the hosts translate portions of the songs and explain how they relate to life in Latin America.

For instance, the hosts play Cancion del Minero, which is about surviving the difficult conditions of mining, in honor of the Chileans that remain trapped in one of the country’s most notorious mines.

But it’s hard to see how some of the hosts’ selections fit within the alternativa scene. Cancion del Minero is folk song from the 1960s.

I’ve yet to find a clear definition for the Latin Alternative music genre, and after reading Alt.Latin’s “about” page, it looks like my search will continue. Jasmine and Felix explain that Alternative Latin music is “not just traditional genres of Latin music (salsa, merengue, cumbia), nor is it American hip-hop, indie or rock.”

The best definition I’ve seen so far is from this New York Times article covering the 2010 Latin Alternative Music Conference:

Latin alternative music is connected as much by its culture-fusing ambitions as by any particular sound. Its musicians refuse to stay within regional genres or to aim for the sentimental common denominator of international Latin pop. Instead, they mix: local and far-flung, earnest and ironic, old and new, and sometimes Spanish and English.

The bottom line: steer clear of the Podcast, but subscribe to the show’s blog and check out the free music on its website.

Heard any good Latin music lately?

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I started off the month criticizing Seth Kugel–the New York Times Frugal Traveler–for being a bit too cheap during his time in Nicaragua and for taking an overly dismissive attitude about Leon. But I’m ending August praising him.

I suspect part of the reason his Nicaragua post had an “us against them tone” was because he had to look after his parents. (I suppose that my trip to Guatemala earlier this year would have been a different experience if I was traveling with my mom and dad).

Until that point, Seth’s frugality created a virtuous circle: connect with locals to spot bargains and enjoy authentic cultural experiences in the process.

Thankfully, Seth found the positive vibe again to finish out his trip through Latin America.

After doing a homestay with a family in Guatemala he arranged through an organization called Magic Carpet Rides, goes to Mexico and ventures off the beaten path. Per a bus driver’s suggestion he goes to a corn farming hamlet near Oaxaca called San Juan Teitipac. He stays at a couple’s house for about $4 per night and explores a 16th century monastery that’s in the town.  The locals point him to the best food in town.

This is Latin America travel at its most frugal and best. Way to go Seth!

What are the odds of being struck by lightning? 1/700,000.  

What are the odds of a foreign tourist being kidnapped in Colombia? 1/234,000

What are the odds of drowning in a given year? 1/80,000

What are the odds of dying in plane crash during your lifetime? 1/5000

What are the odds of dying in a car accident in the U.S? 1/6,500

“Colombia is much safer than it used to be,” I tell everyone. But until this week I didn’t have statistics to support my argument.

Three foreigners have been kidnapped in Columbia this year, according to a story published by Colombia Reports on Aug. 25.

While even one kidnapping is too many, three really isn’t so bad when you consider that nearly 1.4 million foreign tourists visited Colombia in 2009. (About half this amount visit Bogota–Colombia’s most popular tourist destination).

Citing some more statistics from Colombia’s anti-kidnapping agency, the  National Fund for the Defence of Individual Freedom, Columbia Reports noted that:

• the three foreigners: one American, one Swiss, and one Japanese are no longer being held
• 146 Colombians were kidnapped during the first half of 2010
• of the Colombians who were kidnapped, 20 are still in captivity
• of the kidnappings, 77 were committed by ordinary criminals, 35 by guerrilla group the FARC, 21 by guerrilla group ELN, and 16 by paramilitary groups
• the number of kidnappings is 25% higher than in the same period last year

So let’s say that three more foreigners are kidnapped during the second half of 2010. That’s still a total of only six out of 1.4 million visitors, which put the odds at 1/234,000.

In other words, a foreign tourist is more likely to get kidnapped in Colombia than getting struck by lightning. But the kidnapping risk is far outweighed by the likelihood of drowning in a given year or dying in a car accident or an airplane crash.

Image by thejourney1972

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One of this summer’s greatest pleasures has been reading the books that comprise the Stieg Larsson mystery trilogy. (I’m still waiting for my friend to loan me his copy of the last book: The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest).

Besides the thought provoking characters and fast-moving plots, I like the view the books offer into Swedish culture. Everyone drinks coffee all of the time and many of the characters seem to have a pretty relaxed attitude about sex.

It hadn’t occurred to me that some things might be lost in translation until I saw the Swedish movie of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.

There’s a scene in which the main character exacts revenge against a nemesis by tattooing a message on his belly. While it was an odious phrase in English, I noticed that the words were considerably longer in Swedish—making being on the receiving end of this tattoo seem even more tortuous.

But differing translations extend beyond this. A story in the Economist points out that titles of the mystery trilogy were mangled in both Spanish and English:

“La chica con el tatuaje del dragón”, [The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo] as I assumed Stieg Larsson’s thriller might be known. It isn’t: the title here is “Los hombres que no amaban a las mujeres” (“The men who didn’t love women”).

What a rubbish name, I thought: why couldn’t Mexicans be given a direct translation? In fact, it’s English-speakers who have been duped: the original, in Swedish, is simply “Men who hate women”. (“It was considered too scary for foreign audiences, while just hitting the politically-correct spot in Sweden,” reckons my neighbourhood Swede.)

The meddling continues: the sequel, “The Girl Who Played With Fire” in English, is faithful to the Swedish title, but in Spanish is needlessly elaborated as, “The girl who dreamed of a match and a can of petrol”. The third in the series—“The Girl Who Kicked the Hornets’ Nest”, to us—is completely divorced from Swedish (“The air castle that exploded”). Here in Mexico, the same book is “The queen in the palace of the air currents”. Surely there’s an argument for a little less artistic licence?

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All of the bloggers participating in the e-book project have submitted their contributions. A few even honored my 300-word limit. (What was I thinking?)

Now comes the hard part (for me at least): formatting the e-book so it looks pretty.

After reaching out to some of my social media friends for a graphic designer, I think I may have hit on a couple of good candidates. (But if you know of someone who’s good and affordable, please drop me a line).

For those of you who are just joining us, here’s a quick recap:

The working title of the e-book I’m aiming to publish this year is Celebrating Latin America at Ground Level.

The idea is to is to have expats or regular travelers to Latin America write about the region’s pleasures and endless contradictions. Each writer will contribute a short personal essay about a special aspect of Latin America and what it means to them.

Here are the coming attractions for each blogger’s contribution to the e-book:

Carlo Alcos – Vagabonderz and contributing editor for Matador travel: serves up an example of fast friendship in Cuba.

Katie Alley –  Sea Shells and Sunflowers : writes about Argentina’s national drink: mate

Vicky Baker – Going Local Travel: tells about her year without flying–thanks to Argentina’s buses.

Tracy Barnett- Roads Less Traveled and the Esperanza Project: brings into focus Latin America’s joy ethic.

Genny Ross-Barons Roatan Vortex: crafts a narrative highlighting the small pleasures that come with living life in the slow lane.

Ben Box. Editor of The South American Handbook –one of the oldest and most renowned travel guides for South America: describes a funny plane ride to Chile.

Ayngelina Brogan Bacon is Magic: explains how cities are like high school girls—sometimes you’re better off with the pretty girl’s best friend. (Or why when it comes to cities Leon might be better than Granada and Xela might be better than Antigua).

Cathy Brown Expat Daily News Central America and Expat Daily News South America : tells us how she left the U.S. behind to give her kids the life they deserve.

Mark Chesnut - website and blog content for Latin Flyer: shares his five favorite hotels in Latin America.

Julie Schwietert Collazo – Matador Travel, Collazo Projects, Cuaderno Inedito writes about the power of radio in Latin America.

Mark Frances Guate Living blog: recounts an awful night that highlighted the benefits of living in Guatemala.

Nicholas Gill New World Review: writes about street food in Latin America.

Conner Gorry Here is Havana: describes a day in the life of an U.S. expat living in Cuba.

Jill Greenberg First World White Girl blog: reflects on what she’ll miss about Buenos Aires.

Rebecca Smith Hurd All About Puebla: recounts how her desire to learn Spanish led to a love affair with Mexico.

Jim Johnston – Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide shares how life in Mexico City helps him keep things in perspective.

Jessie Kwak - of the Unpaved South America blog: writes about the kindness of strangers in Latin America.

David Lee - Medellin Living blog: explains why he opted for salsa lessons over language classes after moving to Colombia.

Kelly McLaughlin Cancun Canuck – describes life in the land of ni modo–or how Norte Americanos could use a little more of a “whatever”-type attitude, while Mexicans ought to get fired up a little more often.

David Miller – Matador travel, Operating on Stoke blog: offers a terrific narrative that captures the essence of the Latin America surf scene.

Lauren Quinn – of Lonely Girl Travels and TBEX10 honoree: writes about traveling sola in Colombia.

Renee Saldana -Patas Arriba: remembers a special holiday celebration in the southern cone.

Leigh Shulman – Future is Red, editor at Matador: tells us about her slow and complete immersion into Latin culture.

Eileen Smith – Bearshapedsphere: describes Chilean ingenuity.

Margaret Snook – Cachandochile tells us how the obligations that come with close-knit families in Latin America, makes it hard to find a friend with time to spare.

Abby Tegnelia – Costa Rica-based Jungle Princess blog: shares how she earned her place in her new town in Costa Rica the hard way.

Nora Walsh – Travelojos contributor: describes World Cup madness in Latin America.

Earnest White II Fly Brother:  remembers a slow Sunday morning in Caracas.

Holly Elizabeth Worton – EcoHotelology: recounts jaw dropping examples of ingenuity in Latin America.

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In this Intrepid Traveler Dispatch contributor David Dudar shares his experiences and vivid photos of Cartagena, Colombia. With direct flights from the U.S. and low fares, there’s more reasons than ever to visit this historic city.

By David Dudar 

Photo by David Dudar

WHY: Colombia is a country of vast riches, and the travel situation has improved greatly.  Even when the rest of the country was quite dangerous, Cartagena remained a place apart—it was an oasis for Colombians, and received cruise ship visitors who would have been unlikely to make a separate trip to the walled city.  And over the past few decades, the old city has been the focus of a robust restoration program—perhaps unparalleled in the Americas.

The result:  A gorgeous historic center of noteworthy architectural consistency, cobbled streets lined with old buildings dripping with balconies and bougainvillea.  Now that the world is beginning to discover Cartagena, intimate boutique hotels and notable upscale restaurants have opened in the shadows of century-old churches.   And shopping and strolling opportunities abound in this, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

WHEN: Memorial Day weekend, May

GETTING THERE: It wasn’t long ago that a flight to Cartagena from the US required jetting to Bogota first, and a connection—or at the least, a flight on Avianca, the Colombian flag carrier.

Spirit Airlines began service to Cartagena in 2008, and today is the largest US carrier to Colombia, with flights to Bogota, Cartagena, Medellin, Armenia, and Barranquilla.  Despite lingering ill will as a result of its recent strike, and much bad publicity regarding its growing list of add-on fees, Spirit’s entry into the Colombian market has really brought fares down considerably.  Nice surprise too—despite being considerably further south than most other Caribbean destinations, the flight from FLL to Cartagena was less than 3 hours, no longer than a flight from FL to San Juan.    Cartagena is straight due south, whereas Puerto Rico and some other islands are a goodly bit due east of Florida, thus the surprising proximity.

Photo by David Dudar

A FEW SURPRISES: For travelers used to budget friendly destinations throughout Central and South America, Cartagena’s prices will be an unpleasant surprise.  The boutique and convent hotels in the old city will run about $300 or more per night, and a nice dinner for two easily result in a $120 check in some of the more atmospheric restaurants.

Cartagena is surrounded by water, and the city is lined by miles of beaches on the Caribbean.  Still, don’t visit Cartagena for exotic beaches, as you’ll likely be disappointed by the highrise canyon of hotels and condos, and murky water of questionable quality in the city’s sand-side precincts.  Day trips to Rosario and Playa Blanca may satisfy any Caribbean beach cravings.  And many hotel pools throughout Cartagena enjoy sea views and great breezes.

There is an unfortunate number of sidewalk vendors in the old city any stroller will have to contend with. . .other than a raised hand and a quick “No, gracias”,  not much will fend off these mild and unavoidable irritations.

Photo by David Dudar

I KNEW I’D LOVE CARTAGENA WHEN: I arrived at the hotel.  The plaza in front of the former convent is a focus of much activity, with the city walls just beyond.  The dome of St. Peter Claver church is within sight, and narrow cobbled streets lined with balconied heritage buildings start at the plaza’s edge. That first walkaround was a bit sweaty, so I was quite pleased to retreat to the top of the hotel and enjoy an encompassing view of the old city and the Caribbean from the pool on the roof.

Photo by David Dudar

ACCOMMODATIONS: In addition to a number of interesting boutique hotels tucked into restored historic buildings in the old city, Cartagena has not one, but two, hotels housed in former convents.  I stayed in the Charleston Hotel Cartagena, also known as the Santa Teresa, for the old convent the hotel now occupies.  While it is doubtful the nuns had it this good, I quite liked this hotel—fronting on a plaza framed by the fortified walls, and featuring sea views from the upper floors facing the front and left side of the building.  The public spaces are stunning with most wrapped around the hotel’s inner courtyard, and the pool is atop the hotel, with sea and city views surrounding the pool deck on the roof.

My guest room—on a corner featuring sea views–was nicely appointed, from the marble floors to the shower with windows overlooking the Caribbean.  Breakfast was included in my room rate, and could be taken in the atrium of the main building, or at the restaurant atop the hotel at poolside—both were wonderful, and the service at each noteworthy.

Photo by David Dudar

This end of Cartagena’s old city seemed a bit more lively, especially after dark.  The other convent hotel, the Sofitel Santa Clara, also stands at seaside, albeit several blocks away–across from the home of author Gabriel Garcia Marquez.   If anything, the public areas at the Sofitel are even more impressive than those at the Charleston, with the lobby, bar, and restaurants surrounding the courtyards and gardens of the original Santa Clara Convent.  All the same, most of the guest rooms are in a new building—quite comfortable, but the historic charm begins and ends with the public spaces.   Earplugs at any Cartagena hotel are a great precaution, as music day and night are a part of life here.

Photo by David Dudar

THE COOLEST ATTRACTIONS WERE: all around and close at hand.  A visit to Cartagena is about strolling around this colonial jewel, walking atop the city walls, visiting markets, and resting in one of the many gracious plazas and parks between attractions.  A ride on a horse drawn carriage can provide a nice variation from your strolls.  The plaza at Las Bovedas houses vendors who sell candies and other sweets, where as other recesses feature booksellers, and other shops.

Dining, though expensive, is a delight in the old city.  My preference is for the restaurants with outside dining in the plazas that open up to the sky among the narrow streets.  Juan del Mar has two locations flanking opposite sides of the plaza outside the Sofitel Santa Clara—one specializes in seafood, the other features Peruvian cuisine.  A ceviche with a sweet potato ice cream at the Peruvian location remains one of the best appetizers I’d ever eaten.  And the Colombian-Asian fusion fare at Café San Pedro comes with a noteworthy nighttime view of the St. Peter Claver church from the plaza in front.  If you want to dine al fresco—and you will—be sure to reserve an outdoor spot through your hotel’s concierge.

Photo by David Dudar

Strolling atop the old city walls is two miles roundtrip.  Café del Sol is a great place to take a break with a seaside drink, with its wall-top perch affording Caribbean views.  And after dark, Cartagena throbs with music, from spontaneous performances on the city’s plazas, to clubs in the Getsemani district (take a cab).

Should the heat or occasional bad weather prompt some indoor time, three museums are notable.  The Modern Art Museum showcases recent Colombian works, while the Gold Museum highlights jewelry and treasures in a historic mansion.  Within the Palacio de la Inquisicion, torture instruments are on display from early Catholic settlement in old Cartagena.

IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER AGAIN: I’d spend a little more time in Bocagrande, the beachside strip of condos and hotels about a $5 taxi ride from the old city.  Cartagena is laid out somewhat like San Juan, Puerto Rico, with an old city in one corner, and much more modern sections stretching along the waterfront and inland, where most residents live.  While Bocagrande’s group of towers hasn’t nearly the charm of the lovingly restored walled city, the row of cafes, restaurants, shops, and vendors at street level offer a nice alternative to the sometimes precious selection of establishments within the old city’s walled limits.  I rather liked the Juan Valdez Café for a sidewalk coffee.  The main spine of Bocagrande is Avenida San Martin between Calle 10 and Calle 4.

Photo by David Dudar

SOME PARTING ADVICE: You may want to get to the airport 3 hours before your departure.  The lines are long, and customs is both thorough and slow.  The sidewalk stalls on Avenida San Martin in Bocagrande have much less expensive souvenirs than the old city. . .if you seek t-shirts or postcards, this area is much cheaper—and the vendors often bargain.  Another source of inexpensive gifts to take home—Colombian Coffee—can be found in the supermarket in the old city.  Although you may want to forego the Juan Valdez brand—as you can obtain it in the US at Kroger or Safeway, among other supermarkets.

When I’ve stayed at resorts in Mexico I’ve sometimes felt as though I were living in a movie set. The hotel lobby is clean and well decorated, the pool and the beach are a few steps away, and the staff is eager to fulfill my wish for another drink.

But just below the surface, I feel disconnected from the place I’m visiting. “How much does the smiling waitress earn in a week?” I wonder. “What’s her life like?”

“When you visit cities like New York or Paris, that disconnected feeling isn’t there because there are plenty of other people living in those places who have many of the same comforts as you do in your hotel room,” Sonsoles Navarro the founder of Zuvy said.

Zuvy is a website that connects travelers to short-term volunteer opportunities. Each nonprofit organization that participates on the website has been thoroughly vetted and their projects have been audited, Sonsoles said.

“It’s sort of the TripAdvisor for the nonprofit world,” Sonsoles explained. Users can find projects through the site and then leave feedback for others after returning home.

Travelers can use Zuvy to match them with a project aimed at supporting Quecha women weavers in Peru; improving rural development banks in Oaxaca or Hidalgo, Mexico.

Having recently graduated from University of California at Berkeley’s MBA program, Sonsoles started her new venture a few months ago. Zuvy represents a combination of business and pleasure.

“Career-wise, I’ve always dreamed of working in international development,” Sonsoles said. “But I also enjoy traveling and the informal volunteer experiences I’ve had have always been the highlight of my trips.”

Unlike other organizations focused on voluntourism, Zuvy emphasizes the learning experience for the traveler over maximizing the amount that their efforts might contribute. The projects are geared to teach travelers about different cultures and ways of life as well as realities that don’t match what they’ve experienced at home.

Rural Development Banks in Hidalgo, Mexico

Zuvy concentrates on connecting travelers with projects that typically range from one-half day to a full day. The maximum duration for a project available through Zuvy is one week. “The idea is to offer opportunities to people who don’t have time to volunteer for two weeks or longer,” Sonsoles explained.

“The experiences we offer aren’t aimed at making a direct social impact,” Sonsoles said. “Rather, the goal is to raise peoples’ consciousness and inspire them to take action to improve the lives of people living in other parts of the world.”

Participating in the nonprofit opportunities offered by Zuvy will not blow a hole in your travel budget either. The cost is generally $50 for one day ($30 donated to the project and $20 for Zuvy’s service fee). This price point, Sonsoles said, helps keep Zuvy sustainable. “It takes qualified professional people to make the platform work.”

“‘Zuvy’ is short for Zuvuya, which is a Mayan term that relates to synchronicity in time and space,” Sonsoles added.  “It sounds good and I like its reference to mixing different realities in the same time period.”

So the next time you’re feeling a bit disconnected at that posh resort, add a little Zuvy to your travel experience. Chances are it will be the most memorable part of your trip.

Thanks to Zuvy for sponsoring this post. For more information on Zuvy, including a listing of current volunteer opportunities, check out Zuvy’s website.

**I’ll be at my brother’s wedding festivities this weekend, so no blogging from me for the next few days. We’ll return to our regular scheduled programming on Monday. The post below is a golden oldie from last year.

Despite my efforts to pretend my family had the beach to ourselves, the burst of laughter from the group a few blankets away from us was impossible to ignore. The high school-aged boys had sculpted a naked woman in the sand. They seemed gratified by the shrieks their work elicited from their female traveling companions.

As the scene unfolded, I looked over at my 13-year old daughter and hoped she wouldn’t be part of a similar tableau in a few years.

When I booked our stay in Puerto Vallarta, I didn’t think student travelers would be an issue. Our trip was in late June, 2009 –a good three months after college spring break season and only weeks after the CDC lifted its health alert for Mexico.

High School Tour Group. But we realized that graduation season is a time when some high school tour groups visit Mexico.

While the student group that stayed at our hotel didn’t cause any major disturbances, it really wasn’t the crowd I wanted to spend time with on my vacation. It was clear that no one’s mother or father was around. Just a “big brother” figure who ran the tour operation.

I was a “spring breaker” too once, so I have nothing against having a little fun. I’d just prefer to be somewhere else while they’re doing it.

Here are a few tips for avoiding the young and the restless:

• Study up. Check out the web sites of some of the largest student-tour operators. These include Grad City, StudentCity.com, and STS (Student Travel Services). They all have certain things in common that will give you an idea of what to look out for.
• Know Where to Avoid. Each one of the major student tour operations offer trips to the following destinations in Mexico: Acapulco, Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas, and Mazatlan.
• Stay Away from All-Inclusives. The tour operators give students several all-inclusive luxury hotels to choose from. Be particularly wary of inexpensive all-inclusive luxury hotels in any of the locations mentioned above. The general idea is to have the students spend all day drinking at the hotel’s pool and all night partying at the clubs. A cute bed-and-breakfast is the absolute antithesis of this scene.
• Stay a Few Hours Away from the Airport. Once their charges land at the airport, student tour operators whisk them away to a nearby hotel. It seems unlikely that they would book a hotel that was a couple hours from the airport.
• Go Off the Beaten Path. There are plenty of wonderful places in Mexico that are not on the student tour operators’ itineraries. For example, none of the ones I looked at offered trips to Oaxaca even though it has some of Mexico’s most beautiful beaches.
• Vacation in the City. The abundant cultural sights in Mexico City and Guadalajara are entirely off the student tour operators’ radar screens.

What are your tips for avoiding the young and the restless?

Photo by eralon (Via Creative Commons)

In this Intrepid Traveler Dispatch contributor David Dudar recounts his trip to Mexico City.

While the D.F. is only a short plane ride away from the U.S., David tells us why it feels so exotic and far from home. It’s also a picturesque city that is within range to a multitude of worthwhile day trips.

Photo by David Dudar

By David Dudar

WHO: Just me.

WHY: I have been traveling to Mexico City since the 90s, when I worked for United Airlines.  For me, it is about as exotic a city as I can visit in a fairly short flight.  In fact, when I worked for UA, I would fly down for the weekend from Chicago.  Less than four hours later, you know you are not home anymore.  Mexico City is the double espresso of world capitals—and a great base for many interesting day trips.

Photo by David Dudar

WHEN: The day after Thanksgiving, November 2009.

GETTING THERE: Flew American to Dallas then connected.  Mexico City is an easy nonstop flight from many US cities.  Though some guidebooks don’t suggest it, I took the Metro into town. . .less than 20 cents and one transfer later, I was just blocks from my hotel.  If you are less adventurous, an approved taxi (and only take the official taxis from the cab stand) will cost about $16 into the heart of the city.

I WAS REALLY SURPRISED: Mexico City just keeps getting cleaner and cleaner.  Was notably impressed at how cleaned up the streets in the old city, the Centro Historico, have become, and the iconic boulevard Reforma is tidier than many European cities’ avenues.  Smog and air quality can still be an issue, but it has gotten better over the years.  And initiatives like free bicycles at times, and closing off the Reforma to cars on Sundays until 2pm have really made a difference.  Mexico City has even banned smoking in restaurants in bars—an innovation that Miami, Dallas, Houston, and Atlanta haven’t quite mastered yet. . .

Photo by David Dudar

I KNEW I’D LOVE MEXICO CITY WHEN: I visited the first time in 1998, and stayed at a lovely little hotel in the Condesa Roma neighborhood called La Casona.  The morning was cool, and I was enjoying coffee in the courtyard of this jewel box of a hotel.  Later I ventured into San Angel, which remains one of my favorite neighborhoods in the city.  As you’d expect, this city is quite Mexican—what you don’t expect is how European Mexico City can be.  I have to remind myself where I am, sometimes.  Oh, and the altitude makes the temperature spring-like year round.  Gotta love that.

ACCOMMODATIONS: If the Paseo de la Reforma is tres European (Maximillian’s wife reportedly based it off the Avenue Louise in Brussels), it only follows that this boulevard has a few very continental hotels lining its sidewalks.  The Emporio Reforma would not be out of place in Paris—small, chic, cute coffee bar on the Paseo-side of the lobby, stylish black and white marble floor.  What is not particularly Parisian about the hotel is the price—my very nicely appointed, though small room was $70 a night, and included a continental breakfast in Condimento, the hotel’s well attended restaurant.  In Paris, a hotel with a marble bathroom like this, recently renovated furnishings and beds, and this level of service, could easily be four times the cost.  Once you deal with the very compact rooms, the hotel is a find—great location on Reforma, near to Metro and the Insurgentes Metrobus, with the Zona Rosa and the Centro Historico both close at hand.  For me, this is the best hotel value in the city.

Have also enjoyed my stays at La Casona (just a jewel box of a little hotel on the edge of one of the city’s more interesting neighborhoods—Roma—though the room prices have gone up considerably), the Four Seasons (visit just for the spectacular courtyard—this very introverted hotel has 90% of its rooms overlooking the inside of the building, beautifully done) and the Hilton Reforma, actually on the edge of Parque Alameda in the Centro Historico, not far from the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

Photo by David Dudar

THE COOLEST ATTRACTIONS WERE: Ah, where to start?  Love visiting San Angel on Saturdays. . .take the Insurgentes Metrobus to Bombilla, and walk a few blocks to the center square.  From the art shows, to the cafes there, it is all a wonderful stroll.  On Saturdays, the Bazar Sabado showcases more handicrafts, and be sure to try a quesadilla in the courtyard of the Bazar building.  Also, a great church across the street surrounds an atmospheric courtyard.  You can wander through the residential neighborhood nearby, or call for a cab to take you to the Old San Angel Inn—one of the prettiest restaurants on the planet, I’m sure.  Have never eaten there—and it is on my list—but be sure to enjoy a margarita in the courtyard.  Just gorgeous.  Diego Rivera’s studio is across the street, and you can tour it, if so inclined.

On Sundays, visit Coyoacan—again, Metrobus to Bombilla, but find the cab stand, and ask to go to Tres Cruces.  That is the top of the center square, and from there, Coyoacan reveals itself. . .cafes around the square, foodstalls in the nearby market buildings, and lots to see.

Photo by David Dudar

You could have a very fulfilling trip to Mexico City if you never left the Centro Historico.  From the huge Zocalo—one of the three largest squares in the world, to the wedding cake-like Palacio de Bellas Artes performing arts center, each block of the core has a remarkable texture and history to it.  Some things you might overlook—find a shady day, and have breakfast on the roof of the Holiday Inn for great views of the Zocalo and the main Cathedral.  Grab coffee on the 8^th floor of Sears where the outside terrace affords views out over the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

Do a bit of shopping in the original Palacio de Hierro (literally the iron palace) in a grand old building reminiscent of the Chicago Marshall Field’s on State Street or some Berlin department store.  The gardens and murals at the Palacio Nacional off the Zocalo are well worth the stroll through the building and its courtyards.  And wander into the lobby of the Gran Hotel de Mexico City to see its belle époque atrium.  The food is not noteworthy, but the Sanborns in the House of Tiles is gorgeous inside and out. . .even if you are not eating, be sure to stop in.

The twin neighborhoods of Condesa and Roma are both art deco and European in feel, with a few lovely parks—Parque Mexico and Parque Espana—at their center.  In fact, as it was just before Christmas when I was last there, city ground crews were planting poinsettias in the parks. . .just gorgeous.  The area around Av. Michoacan has a number of great sidewalk cafes, among them my favorite Fonda Garufa—an Argentine place, for good food and interesting people watching.

IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER AGAIN: I’d have stayed longer, both to enjoy more of Mexico City and some of the day trips that are so convenient from the city.

Cuernavaca is about an hour away, and is best done on a weekday.  Be sure to reserve a spot for lunch at Las Mananitas, a lovely hotel where peacocks stroll the garden grounds.  The center square is pretty, as well.

Photo by David Dudar

Taxco is known for its silver, and the town is draped over hills so steep little VW bugs strain to cling to the slopesides.  Quite picturesque with its views and colonial architecture.  Puebla doesn’t have the hillside setting of Taxco, but its weekend markets are quite popular, and the center of the city is nicely restored.  The mole is quite noteworthy here.  All these cities, and others, can be easily reached by bus.  Your hotel concierge can assist, and for the buses leaving from Tasquena, the station is convenient by Metro.

And a must for some visitors. . .the pyramids at Teotihuacan.  The organized tours are a bit tedious, as they will stop at gift shops and tequila distilleries—I found hiring a taxi for the day worked best.  Again, only approved taxis need apply.

SOME PARTING ADVICE: Take only taxis your hotel calls for you, or those at an approved cab stand (sitio, in Spanish) as some have had problems with cabs they hail on the street.

The city’s reputation for being unsafe is good to keep in mind—you should exercise caution here—but don’t let it prevent you from enjoying this remarkable place.  As a precaution, you might want to let your bank at home know that you will be in Mexico City in case your ATM card were to be compromised—they can set daily limits on how much can be withdrawn.  Keep tabs on your wallet, flashy things like iPhones and nice cameras are best downplayed.

The better places in town can be dressy, and evenings can be cool, so a light jacket might be perfect to pack.

Photo by David Dudar

When someone who speaks English arrives late to the bus stop and sees the bus rolling down the street without her, she will describe this as having “missed the bus.”

The underlying premise is that because she arrived late, she forfeited her opportunity to ride on the bus. It was her fault.

But Spanish speakers have a different take on this situation. They use the verb “perder,” which means “to lose.” In Spanish “I missed the bus” is “Perdí el bus.” “I lost the bus.” Fault is not as much of an issue here because, by definition, “losing” something is unintentional.

In English “to lose” means to “cause (something) to cease to be in one’s possession or capability due to unfortunate or unknown circumstances, events or reasons,” according to Wiktionary. “To miss” in the transportation context means “to be late.”

The Spanish concept of “losing the bus” is more forgiving than the idea of missing it in English.

In Spanish, You’ve “lost the bus” because of unfortunate or unknown circumstances. What’s a person to do?

But in English, you’ve “missed the bus” because you were late—it doesn’t matter why. Regardless of why it happened, the bottom line is the bus went off without you because you weren’t there when you were supposed to be. It was your fault.

Stanford Magazine published a thought-provoking article a few months ago about how language shapes the way we think. Stanford researcher Lera Boroditsky explains how the English language is set up to describe final results, while other languages look to intent.

“In English,” she says, moving her hand toward the cup, “if I knock this cup off the table, even accidentally, you would likely say, ‘She broke the cup.’” However, in Japanese or Spanish, she explains, intent matters. If one deliberately knocks the cup, there is a verb form to indicate as much. But if the act were an accident, Boroditsky explains, a smile dancing across her lips as she translates from Spanish, the speaker would essentially say, “The cup broke itself.”

Which language speakers are more litigious I wonder?

Can you think of other good examples?